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WHAT'S ON THIS PAGE NAVIGATION BOX AMSTERDAM DIARY: The Midnight Rambler (Please Let Me Introduce Myself'; Whose Movie Is This?; Psychedelic City; I Think Therefore I Amsterdam; A Glass Act; Lust For . . . ; Heavy Weather) LETTERS COLUMN | ADVICE COLUMN: Ask Auntie Edith | Go to Contents | Go To Next Page (20) |
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a cloaked and hooded figure flits from shadow to shadow. You can see him jump the garden wall but only when he's stealing underwear from clothes lines. It must be . . . . . |
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Midnight Rambler |
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READ THIS STORY IN
PS: Daddy says I should remind you
Got a problem in your life? A
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Our Amsterdam diarist offers some reflections on the City of Dreams |
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| READ THIS STORY IN PRINTABLE PLAIN TEXT LPLEASE LET ME INTRODUCE MYSELF ItIt doesn't matter how long you've lived in Amsterdam, you'll always be an outsider. You might speak the language like a local but it is only non- locals who will think so. The locals will pull you up on even the slightest mispronunciation. But you've got to give them credit for their linguistic abilities; it is no mean feat to be able to tell someone how much some- thing costs in 18 different languages. The best you'll ever get is to be regarded as a professional tourist. But that is okay. Being treated like a leper with BO creates a little distance, a lack of involvement, that makes observing this recognisable but extremely strange -- even alien -- society an entertaining and educational experience. Being an outsider gives one a view that 'insiders' simply cannot have. Which, as they say on The Fast Show, 'is nice.' TTOP OF PAGE LWHOSE MOVIE IS THIS? ItStanding on the Damrak watching a whacked-out crazy trying to jump a puddle I turn to the person standing next to me and say: "I not sure if this is a dream I am having or if I am taking part in some kind of movie." He looks at me blankly and replies in flawless German. Oh, well, there you go. This is, after all, Amsterdam. We are part of a crowd of maybe 50 people standing watching one of the Damrak's unshaven try to get over this puddle. Not a big puddle, just an itsy bitsy smear of water on the edge of the bike path. The spectacle is both sad and very, very funny. The jumpee (he never did make it across) has one of those muscular/neuro- logical things that makes the limbs flutter and gives a singular springiness to the step as if there is music in the air. His sense of balance is extrem- ely compromised and his legs have half a mind of their own. He stands swaying, gazing intently at the puddle for two or three minutes before he attempts a jump. If anyone passes him by at speed at any distance he falls over backwards. Not exactly falls, more kind of sits. If a tram goes by (behind him) the same thing happens. If anyone approaches him, the same. If the wind blows, ditto. It is total slapstick. Classic stuff. After psyching out the puddle for a few minutes he starts to get into position. The puddle is on the inside edge of the bike lane and there is a very slight incline to be ascended before the jump can be attempted. Taking hold of his right leg he moves it forward a few inches and stands swaying. Then very slowly and deliberately he grasps his left leg and shuffles that forward. As he does so, his centre of balance changes and, opps! He sits for a minute or two and then gets to his feet and repeats the performance. After a few tries he has gathered a crowd that most street performers would die for. But he doesn't realise. This is not a performance, it is for real. He just has this thing he has to do. Finally, two Dutch girls put us all to shame by talking to him and calling an ambulance. Surreal. TTOP OF PAGE LPSYCHEDELIC CITY ItSo much about Amsterdam seems to serve the eyes of stoned people. This is an extremely beautiful city laid out like a waterlogged maze. Amazing. Although the architecture is wonderful, it is the water and the sky that make the city such a visual treat. Riding home at night on the tram, on every canal there is a lightshow. It is just glorious. And Amster- dam has the most amazing skies (trippers' skies, as we call them) full of cloud shapes that conjure mythical beasts and landscapes, holes that glow, rich colours and dramatic contrasts. It is a big sky, too. It is the full cinemascope version that stretches from wall to wall. There is no need to be stoned to conjure whole movies out the sky but it helps. TTOP OF PAGE LI THINK THEREFORE I AMSTERDAM ItWhen the editor of Coffeehouse Culture is doing his sticht about Amster- dam being a higher level of society, one of the things he says is that this is a thinking city. And it is true. Although in Amsterdam there are an immense number of brain dead imbeciles who wouldn't recognise a thought if it hit them between the eyes, this is a thinking society. Okay, so it is not perfect but it is better. One reflection of this thinking society is the way in which Amsterdammers take care of their environment. Not long after I had moved here, I went to a computer exhibition at the RAI (yes, you're absolutely right, I do have a row of different coloured pens protrud- ing from the breast pocket of my anorak). I had been told to come out of the metro, turn left, walk to the end of the building on my left and take another left turn and there would be the main entrance. Presumably because they were not allowed to give them out of the forecourt, just before the final left turn there were some guys handing out those ubiquitous computer recruitment flyers that no one ever wants but everyone takes and discards as soon as possible. I tried to avoid them but no. As I do not like to offend people who force unwanted bits of paper on me and am a conscientious citizen who puts his rubbish in a bin I held on to the flyer until I was round the corner. Apparently there were a lot of people looking for computer jobs in Amsterdam for there were no discarded leaflets littering the ground as there would have been in London. As I rounded the corner I understood why. There, in a bin, were all the discarded flyers. The bin was packed to overflowing with them but it was not overflowing. Indeed, there was not one discarded leaflet on the ground. I added mine to the bin. On the whole it is the same throughout the whole of Amsterdam. Although it is fairly subtle it is clearly there. TTOP OF PAGE LA GLASS ACT ItAlthough this year Amsterdam came a poor second or third or fourth to Paris, Sydney and London, usually it has great fireworks on New Year's Eve and, randomly, on every evening throughout the whole of December and half of January. The place to go on New Year's Eve is Nieuwe Markt, right next to the Chinese quarter, but there are fireworks everywhere. The Chinese sell them and they let off the best and biggest in an effort to burn down their shops. I have never heard such sustained and percussive fireworks. They explode and explode and explode. Nieuwe Markt was not so good this year. The fireworks were nice but nothing sensational. Everybody was drinking champagne bought from street vendors wheeling around supermarket trolleys. But, for some unaccountable reason, when the boozers had finished their bottles, they celebrated their good vibes for the new millennium by throwing the empties at the floor. As a consequence, by 12.30 the streets were covered with broken glass which was extremely hazardous if you happened to be pissed on champagne and fell down in the scum. It was unpleasant to say the least. But that is what booze does to you. Me, I left two roaches and a sliver of trainer. TTOP OF PAGE LLUST FOR .... ItI've never understood those blues about 'big thighed women.' Fattening frogs for snakes, that I understand, but big thighed women? Surely what we all want, blues singers as well as the rest of us, are slim. lithe, grace- ful and gorgeous women. Who, apart from people with big torsos, need big thighs? Maybe that is why when that sensible coterie of blues singers emigrated from the States to Europe, they all ended up in Paris. Parisians, as we all know, have inordinately large thighs and buttocks due to an excessively oily diet and their unfettered greed. Amsterdam would not have done at all. For here the vast majority of the women are slim thighed and tight buttocked. American visitors to Amsterdam tend to be partic- ularly knocked out by the lithesome beauty of the city's womenfolk. But, of course, Americans have never seen a slim thigh. As we all know the word 'slim' has been deleted from the American dictionary so that fat people feel a little better about themselves. Unfortunately, the pert buttocks match the pert attitudes of their owners. So no touching. The reason, of course, is all that bike riding. Young Amsterdammers can be seen belting down the bike lanes before they can walk and are said to be super-glued to the saddles soon after birth. So strong is the tradition of bike riding in Amsterdam that many pregnant women have tiny bicycles surgically implanted into the womb a few months before birth so that the foetus can practice changing gears. TTOP OF PAGE LHEAVY WEATHER ItWhen I was still an occasional visitor, I managed to build up a substantial collection of umbrellas bought in Amsterdam. I thought I was just unlucky with the weather but I have since found out that I was actually quite lucky. It rains a lot here; often and hard. That, however, is only half of it. You haven't lived until you have experienced Amsterdam's perverse corrupt- ion of snow. There'sno snow quite like it. Snow as we all know is manufactured by Walt Disney from fairies' hair. It is light and fluffy and does not use lacquer. It glides gently down from a faecal yellow sky and forms Christmas cards. Not in Amsterdam, it doesn't. Here it hurtles down from the sky with an evil glint in its eye. This, my dears, is snow with attitude. In fact, it is not snow but a cross between snow and hail (hey, let's call it 'snail' because it feels like someone is pelting you with molluscs). Have you ever seen snow bounce? No? Then come to Amsterdam. And it settles (when it has finished bouncing). Well it is rather more frozen than normal snow. When it is down, it looks quite nice but that is just an illusion designed to entice you out of your front door. Once you are out there and it has your feet firmly in its grip, watch out for frost- bite. As you walk, which is difficult when you can't feel your feet, it is like stepping on angels teeth. If the allusion is unpleasant , the experience is very unpleasant. Crunch, crunch, curruuunnnch. But looking on the bright side (not that there is much bright around from October to April) at least the weather isn't boring. There is nothing quite so tedious as sunshine, sunshine, sunshine. When I lived in LA I got so I just couldn't face another pair of Bermuda shorts. By the time I had finished I had been through the 'One Ray At a Time' Sunblock Anonymous programme three times and still couldn't look at a sun bronzed buttock in the face without reaching for the Ambre Solaire, crashing onto a sunbed and ordering a Tequila Sun- rise, heavy on the ice. I finally had to leave the boredom of Los Angeles and its weather when my whole body turned into a giant melanoma. TTOP OF PAGE |
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